Getting there not half the fun it once was

Getting there not half the fun it once was

A preserved street railway car at the Seashore Trolley Museum, Kennebunkport, Maine • Photo by Rene Schwietzke (CC BY 2.0)

Originally published 18 April 1994

A few weeks ago, I not­ed the lack of a high-speed trav­el link between Boston and New York, and pro­posed sev­er­al solu­tions, some seri­ous, some whimsical.

A num­ber of peo­ple took issue with the analy­sis. Their respons­es fell into two categories.

First, sev­er­al asked if inter­ci­ty trav­el was not soon to become obso­lete. The infor­ma­tion super­high­way will replace the phys­i­cal super­high­way, they said. Why spend bil­lions mak­ing it pos­si­ble to get from Bean Town to the Big Apple in two hours, when satel­lites and fiber-optic cables can let you make the trip in microseconds?

A sec­ond group won­dered what the hur­ry was. These were gen­er­al­ly old­er peo­ple who recalled the plea­sures of trav­el in a more leisure­ly age. One cor­re­spon­dent recalled tak­ing the train from Boston to Fall Riv­er, then overnight to New York on the “Priscil­la” or the “Com­mon­wealth” of the Fall Riv­er Line. Or trav­el­ing from North Sta­tion to Port­land, and on to St. John, New Brunswick by Pull­man Palace car. Even Province­town was with­in easy reach by rail, with first class accom­mo­da­tions if you could afford it. In those days, get­ting there was half the fun.

Per­haps the most remark­able trav­el ameni­ty of yes­ter­year was the sys­tem of elec­tric street rail­ways that linked many towns of New Eng­land. A trol­ley once rolled down the main streets of my vil­lage of Eas­t­on, con­nect­ing it to Brock­ton, Mans­field, Taunton, and oth­er near­by com­mu­ni­ties — which in turn reached out tracked ten­ta­cles to their oth­er neighbors.

For 10 cents you could pur­chase a Trol­ley Wayfind­er, a street rail­way map of New Eng­land that chart­ed a trip to almost any des­ti­na­tion, pro­vid­ed you were will­ing to make a num­ber of trans­fers. The pam­phlet was pub­lished by the New Eng­land Street Rail­way Club.

With suf­fi­cient time, you could town-hop all the way to New York City by elec­tric trolley.

In his nov­el Rag­time, set in the ear­ly years of the 20th cen­tu­ry, E. L. Doc­torow describes a street rail­way jour­ney in the oppo­site direc­tion, from New York to Boston. The char­ac­ter Tateh and his daugh­ter board a No. 12 trol­ley at Hes­ter Street in Low­er Man­hat­tan. At Union Square, they trans­fer to a No. 8 for the ride up Broad­way, bells clang­ing, sparks crack­ling along over­head elec­tric lines. A few more trans­fers and they cross the city line into Mount Ver­non, N.Y. At New Rochelle, father and daugh­ter switch to the Post Road Shore Line, which takes them along the Long Island Sound shore­line to the Con­necti­cut bor­der. In Green­wich, they trans­fer to anoth­er car, which con­veys them as far as Bridgeport.

From there, a car of the Spring­field Trac­tion Com­pa­ny car­ries them from New Haven, through New Britain and Hart­ford into Mass­a­chu­setts. At Spring­field, they switch to the Worces­ter Elec­tric Street Rail­way and soon they are in Boston. The ride is an adven­ture, requir­ing sev­er­al days and sleep­overs in a park and a room­ing house. The total fares for Tateh is $2.40, and just over a dol­lar for the child.

Not long ago, while trav­el­ing to New York by Amtrak, I was read­ing anoth­er account of a rail jour­ney more than half a cen­tu­ry ago, in Eudo­ra Wel­ty’s auto­bi­og­ra­phy One Writer’s Beginning.

She writes: “I had a win­dow seat. Beside me, my father checked the progress of our train by mov­ing his fin­ger down the timetable and spring­ing open his pock­et watch. He explained to me what the posi­tion of the arms of the sem­a­phore meant; before we were to pass through a switch we would watch the sig­nal lights change. Along our track, the mile­posts could be read; he read them. Right on time by Dad­dy’s watch, the next town sprang into view, and just as quick­ly was gone.”

After din­ner in the “sparkling din­ing car,” Wel­ty and her father moved to the open-air obser­va­tion plat­form at the end of the train, where they sat in fold­ing chairs and watched sparks from the loco­mo­tive fly into the night. She writes too of drift­ing in and out of sleep in her Pull­man bed, alter­nate­ly lulled and wak­ened by the sounds of the train, the tracks, the bridges, the tunnels.

All of this I read while creep­ing along lit­tered, graf­fi­ti- bor­dered track on the out­skirts of New York City, curs­ing myself for being in such a hurry.

Some­thing has been lost, no doubt about that. Now that auto­mo­biles clog our roads and pol­lute our air, we think wist­ful­ly about rein­vent­ing some­thing like the street rail­way sys­tem and the gra­cious inter­ci­ty trains of half-a-cen­tu­ry ago, some­times for­get­ting that it was­n’t so much the auto­mo­bile as our impa­tience that made the trol­leys and rail trav­el obsolete.

There’s no going back. It’s hur­ry, hur­ry to get ahead and leave the com­pe­ti­tion in our dust. The very idea of trav­el now seems to be a waste of time.

My first cat­e­go­ry of cor­re­spon­dents were clos­er to the truth. Even two hours, Boston-to-New York, will not be fast enough to sat­is­fy our haste. And that’s why the elec­tron­ic super­high­way, not “bul­let trains,” is the trav­el mode of the future.

Noth­ing less than the speed of light will get us there fast enough.

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